Note: Sadly, Rue de L’Espoir has closed.
Although Rue de L’Espoir has received mixed reviews, I was surprised to see no one mentioned what I believe may be their show-stopper: homemade popovers.
I haven’t visited for dinner yet (too many restaurants, too little time) but on our latest brunch outing I found Rue de L’Espoir offers a nice brunch in a cozy atmosphere. Admittedly it’s not perfect — the omelets, for example, had too much brown on them to be considered a proper French omelet. And although the pancakes were tasty, they were no match for my personal favorite. But they served homemade corn muffins with raspberry jam, fresh cinnamon rolls, and, most importantly, deliciously light and airy homemade popovers.
If you’ve never eaten a popover, you may not appreciate the significance of my finding amazing popovers. When made correctly, it’s basically a giant cream puff without the cream. And if, like me, you’ve never attempted to make a popover, you might not realize just how difficult it is to achieve a dough that yields a golden brown crust atop a few layers of soft dough covering mostly a giant pocket of air. But I know a good thing when I eat it, and the popovers at Rue De L’Espoir will not disappoint.
Rue De L’Espoir
99 Hope Street
Providence, RI
www.therue.com