summer

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Summer’s End on Block Island

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After living in Providence nearly six years, we finally made the day trip to Block Island. I’m not sure what took us so long exactly, but now I know what we’ve been missing.

Not surprisingly, the first thing we sought to do was eat – although the smell of bacon and long line at Ernie’s suggested it would be worth the wait, we decided to go somewhere we could eat outside without a wait, which turned out to be the Surf Hotel. Breakfast turned out to be perfectly fine (egg sandwiches on brioche, and reasonable kids’ meals).

We decided to rent a car so we could more easily explore. With six of us in our party, we opted for the circa 1980s minivan on the lot, which was offered to us for an absurd fee — oh but don’t worry, it hasn’t been cleaned, it’s on ‘E’ and it may not start. I’m not kidding – the agent actually had trouble starting the car.

With our cool ride, we drove across the entire island (it didn’t take long). We drove past rolling hills with cows and horses and impressive ocean views around nearly every corner. We parked by Settler’s Rock and walked the rocky beach over to the lighthouse.

I’d say the highlight was Mohegan Bluffs, where you climb down a winding staircase of over 100 stairs down to the water. As if that’s not enough of a barrier, the stairway ends abruptly at a treacherous cliff with a sketchy rope to ‘help’ you make your final leg down to the beach. It is quite beautiful once you make it down – with the ocean up against an enormous cliff, and it’s impressive how many people of all ages actually seemed to be able to make it down and back up without harm (including our four-year-old, although I’ll admit to not being very ‘relaxed’ about the whole experience at the time).

After we returned the car, we walked over to Ballard’s Beach, where we sat on the beach, got a snack, and enjoyed our last ocean swim of the season.

I can’t wait to go back (and I definitely can’t wait for it to be summer again). The only thing that’s missing seems to be great ice cream (and no, Turkey Hill ice cream at the Ice Cream Palace does not count, in my opinion), so next time, I’ll plan to stop at the Sweet Spot in Narragansett when I get off the ferry.

Ernie’s
212 Water Street
New Shoreham, Block Island, RI

Surf Hotel
32 Dodge Street
New Shoreham, RI
www.thesurfhotelbi.com

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Tricycle Ice Cream: Ice Cream Sandwiches

Tricycle Ice Cream at the Hope Street Farmers' Market.

Tricycle Ice Cream at the Hope Street Farmers’ Market.

Gourmet ice cream sandwiches. I’m glad someone finally had this genius idea, and even happier that they’re in Providence. Last weekend, I had the chance to try Tricycle Ice Cream at the Hope Street Farmers’ Market, nevermind that it was only 11 am, and I hadn’t yet had lunch.

Strawberry ice cream between two vanilla shortbread cookies.

Strawberry ice cream between two vanilla shortbread cookies.

Their flavors change regularly, but apparently that day the strawberry ice cream between two vanilla shortbread cookies (made with local strawberries from Salisbury Farm) was so popular they brought in an extra delivery during the market. Its popularity was well-deserved too, tasting as good as one of my summer favorites, strawberry shortcake.

The only downside: you have to wait a minute or two for the ice cream to melt when you get it. That can seem like a long two minutes.

Tricycle Ice Cream

At Farmers’ Markets throughout Providence, Pawtucket and Newport. See www.tricycleicecream.com for their list.

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10 Favorite Summer Days in Rhode Island

My surfboard on the sand

My surfboard on the sand

Ah, summer. Finally, we’re together again.

Although I do enjoy ice skating and skiing, for me, they just don’t compare to lying on a warm beach, swimming, and surfing. And in Rhode Island, we’re lucky to find everything we need to enjoy summer right here in the Ocean State.

This list is not meant to be comprehensive, but rather a list of ten of my favorite ways to spend a day during the summer in Rhode Island. I’d love to hear yours too, so post in the comments below!

1.  Surf, Beach, and Mini-Amusement Park in Narragansett

Photo by Dee and Tula Monstah.

Narragansett Town Beach. Photo: Dee and Tula Monstah.

For more low-key (read: novice) surfers like myself, Narragansett Town Beach generally offers small (one to three foot) waves, and the water tends to be freer of seaweed than some other local surf beaches. You can set up a surf lesson in Narragansett or rent a board with Warm Winds Surf Shop or Narragansett Surf & Skate, or just head out with your own board. The beach is separated by a surf side and a swim side, so if you’re only up for swimming, you can head to the other side of the beach. Note that Narragansett Town Beach has a fee both for parking and for entrance on the beach.

Prepare to get wet on the bumper boats...

The bumper boats at Adventureland.

For lunch, I love Crazy Burger, which has a great selection of burgers, salads and sandwiches for vegetarians and omnivores alike.

If that’s not enough action for the day, then we’ll stop at Adventureland, a miniature amusement park with a carousel, bumper boats and a kids’ raceway.

We usually like to pick up some local seafood at Champlin’s to cook at home later (likely stopping for some ice cream at the Sweet Spot while we’re there), and picking up some local corn at Sunsets Farm on the way home.

2. Bike Ride and Lunch Along the Bay

Stopping along the East Bay Bike Path.

Stopping along the East Bay Bike Path.

If it’s not too hot, one of my favorite things to do is take a bike ride along the East Bay Bike Path, which follows the coastline of the bay between East Providence down to Bristol, Rhode Island. The ride isn’t terribly hilly, and it’s so peaceful to ride along the water.

I like to stop along the way at the Audubon Society in Bristol to explore their outdoor grounds or indoor museum.

A cup of coffee chip at Gray's Ice Cream.

A cup of coffee chip at Gray’s Ice Cream.

Although the food is underwhelming, it’s hard to beat the view at Agave in Bristol. Save room for ice cream at Gray’s Ice Cream, which is one of my favorites.

3. Rocky Coast Hike and View of the Bay in Jamestown

The view from Fort Wetherill State Park in Jamestown.

The view from Fort Wetherill State Park.

When I’m up for a more adventurous activity, I love to hike up Fort Wetherill in Jamestown. It’s a fairly easy walk, even with children, and the views of Narragansett Bay are fantastic. If you think ahead, you can pack a picnic lunch. Or, you can make your way into the town of Jamestown to pick a spot along the water.

There’s also the Jamestown Community Playground for kids that need to let off steam before or after their meal.

4. Beach, Boats, Kites and Seafood in Newport and Middletown

Second Beach in Middletown, RI.

Second Beach in Middletown, RI.

I usually skip Newport’s Easton’s Beach (“First Beach”) in Newport, and head to Sachuest Beach (“Second Beach”) in Middletown, Rhode Island. The water tends to be freer of seaweed, although the seagulls remain as aggressive as ever here, which is why I don’t recommend lunch on the beach. Plus, who needs lunch when you can go straight from the beach to Frosty Freez for delicious soft-serve.

Kite flying in Brenton State Park along the water in Newport.

Kite flying in Brenton State Park along the water in Newport.

We always like to try to make time to take a drive along the coast on Ocean Drive, stopping at Brenton Point State Park, which typically makes for a great kite-flying spot.

We’ve also spent many pleasant hours over the years in the rental boats available at Sail Newport in Fort Adams State Park.

For dinner, I usually head to Flo’s Clam Shack for my favorite lobster roll and clamcakes. Or if I’m in the mood for a more relaxing sit-down dinner, then I head to  Scales & Shells for local seafood or Mamma Luisa for homemade Italian, both favorites that have stood the test of time.

5. Pool, Cake and a Drive-in Movie

Pool-time.

Pool-time.

Although I do love the ocean, swimming in a pool can often be much easier–no waves and sea creatures to contend with.

If you don’t have access to a pool, see if you can find a friend and get invited by someone with a membership to one (guest fees tend to be about $5-10 per person at local clubs).

Wrights Dairy Farm

Wrights Dairy Farm

After swimming (I like to do laps), I like a treat (shocking, I know). Depending on where I am, I might drive to Eskimo King.

Another one of my favorites is an excursion to Wrights Dairy Farm for some coffee milk and strawberry shortcake.

And what better way to finish a summer evening than with an outdoor movie at the Rustic Tri-View Drive-In?

6. Fishing, Baseball and Fireworks

I love to sit on the grassy field by the outfield at McCoy Stadium.

I love to sit on the grassy field by the outfield at McCoy Stadium.

What could be more American? Start with fishing and a ride on the carousel at Slater Memorial Park.

Then head to a Paw Sox game at McCoy Stadium, where you can grab some beers and a Super Pretzel, some shelled peanuts, or hot dog, and spread out on the lawn to watch the game. If you pick a night with fireworks after, then you can end the night with a close-up show.

7. Beach, Cocktails and Oysters

One of my favorite state beaches is East Matunuck Beach–it’s a bit rockier than some, but it’s has a great atmosphere for children. Plus, you can eat at the waterfront Matunuck Oyster Bar before or after. Am I the only one who finds the beach makes them hungry?

If I’m looking for a more lively beach day, I might head down to Misquamicut Beach in Westerly, RI and have cocktails and lunch at The Andrea’s newly restored bar, right on the beach.

8. An All-Providence Summer Day

Breakfast sandwich from Pat's Pastured.

Breakfast sandwich from Pat’s Pastured.

On Saturday mornings, you’ll typically find us at the Hope Street Farmers’ Market in Lippitt Park, Providence. There are dozens of farm vendors from Rhode Island and Massachusetts, and throughout the summer, the produce increases in variety. You’ll also find the Pat’s Pastured Pork stand for breakfast sandwiches, or Tallulah Tacos for lunch. There’s even a series of local craft vendors if you want to do additional shopping.

DePasquale Square on Atwells Ave.

DePasquale Square on Atwells Ave.

On other days of the week, I might head to Venda Ravioli, where you can eat outside in DePasquale Square on Atwells Avenue.

You might not think of the zoo as too appealing on a hot summer day, but the Roger Williams Park Zoo now has Hasbro’s Big Backyard with sprinklers and water play for the kids (and I suppose, over-heated adults). Don’t forget to squeeze in a few minutes to see some elephants, giraffes and gorillas while you’re there.

Sparks fly on a windy night.

Sparks fly on a windy night.

Then, it’s hard to deny the tourist appeal of Providence’s Waterfire. It was the first event that brought us into Providence before we moved here, and its success has led to its adoption in other small cities. It’s one of the only times you’ll see actual traffic in downtown Providence, as a novelty, I appreciate it, especially since I don’t have to drive.

In my ideal day, I’d begin with watching them light the fires, then enjoy a meal at Figidini or Gracie’s, and finish off with a concert at Lupo’s.

9. Berry Picking and Wine Tasting on Aquidneck Island

Newport Vineyards tables overlooking the grapevines.

Newport Vineyards tables overlooking the grapevines.

When I get sick of the beach (it takes a lot of beach days in a row for this to happen), I love going to Sweet Berry Farm in Middletown for berry picking. They also have a small gourmet grocery shop with other tasty treats.

Then, I’d enjoy a relaxing snack and glass of wine at Newport Vineyards at their outdoor seating overlooking their rows of grapevines.

10. Biking and Surfing on Block Island

Ok, this one is actually on my ‘to do’ list.

It’s a bit absurd to admit, but even after living in Providence several years, I have failed to make the short ferry ride to Block Island. But I’m determined that this will be the year.

List of Places Mentioned (without links):

Narragansett Town Beach
39 Boston Neck Rd.
Narragansett, RI
www.narragansettri.gov

Crazy Burger
144 Boon St.
Narragansett, RI
www.crazyburger.com

Sunsets Farm
www.farmfresh.org

Audubon Society of RI
1401 Hope St
Bristol, RI
www.asri.org

Agave
805 Hope Street
Bristol, RI
www.agavebristol.com

Jamestown Community Playground
41 Conanicus Ave.
Jamestown, RI

Sachuest Beach
474 Sachuest Point Rd.
Middletown, RI
www.visitrhodeisland.com

Brenton Point State Park
Ocean Drive
Newport, RI
www.riparks.com

Sail Newport
60 Fort Adams Dr.
Newport, RI
www.sailnewport.org

Scales & Shells
527 Thames St.
Newport, RI
www.scalesandshells.com

Mamma Luisa
673 Thames St.
Newport, RI
www.mammaluisa.com

The Andrea
89 Atlantic Ave.
Westerly, RI
www.andreabeachbar.com

Hope Street Farmers’ Market
Lippitt Park
1059 Hope Street
Providence, RI
www.farmfresh.org

Venda Ravioli
265 Atwells Ave.
Providence, RI
www.vendaravioli.com

Gracie’s
194 Washington St.
Providence, RI
www.graciesprov.com

Lupo’s
79 Washington St.
Providence, RI
www.lupos.com

Newport Vineyards
909 E Main Rd.
Middletown, RI
www.newportvineyards.com

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Swiss Valley Farm Foundation in Newport, RI

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I’ve driven by the Swiss Valley Farm (SVF) in Newport, RI dozens of times, marveling at how Newport packs a quaint New England town, rocky ocean cliffs, and rustic farmland into a few miles.

Yesterday, we made it to their Annual Visitors Day. The Foundation is part science lab, part conservation organization, and part farm. They specialize in the preservation of rare and heritage breeds and livestock, like the critically endangered Arapawa goat and the rare Leicester Longwool Sheep. Although the farm is only open to the public once a year in order to protect the animals’ germplasm (semen and embryos) from outside contamination, you can purchase their heritage lamb, beef and honey year-round.

The farm’s architecture is reminiscent of a European village with its rolling hills and old stone structures (which have been impressively restored inside and out). The Visitors Day attracts people of all ages who come out to watch llama and sheep shearing; try out some of their heritage lamb, beef and pork; and explore some of the buildings across the foundation’s 45 acres. They even had some John Deere tractors and vehicles for children to pretend to drive.

This year, Julians arrived with their traveling omnibus, a double-decker bus where they cook on the ‘ground floor’ and have booths for dining on the upper open deck. Of course, the menu at SVF featured heritage meats including whiskey cola pulled pork sandwiches, lamb bratwursts and hamburgers (they did also have one vegan option, but we didn’t order it).

Now, if only I could figure out how to get invited to one of their visitor cottages… veterinarian school?

Swiss Valley Farm Foundation
Newport, RI
www.svffoundation.org
Annual Visitors Day typically in mid-June

Julians 
Travelling Omnibus: www.juliansprovidence.com/omnibus

Restaurant: Providence, RI www.juliansprovidence.com

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Coastal Growers’ Market in South County

farm-dog-and-veg

Music at the market…

Guest post by Nancy Caronia, a Lecturer in the Honors Program at University of Rhode Island. Check out her blog at http://ncaronia.wordpress.com/

fennel

From the bounty of the market: fresh fennel.

I’m from Brooklyn, NY, but I lived in Central New York for ten years. In New York City, I would frequent the Union Square Market, and in Central New York, I happily shopped at the Rochester Public Market. I love farmers, I love the food they grow, and I love supporting them and eating their food.

That’s why I appreciate the Coastal Growers Market near my current home in South County, Rhode Island. The four-season farmers market is like both of these markets, but actually reminds me more of the market when I lived in Cassis, France during a semester long writing fellowship with The Camargo Foundation. The vendors in the open-air market would teach me French and I would bring home the loaves of hot olive bread, fresh greens, rabbit, olives, cheese and fresh eggs. Each vendor was kind, whether I was buying two heads of lettuce or a bouquet of mimosa that was large enough to make me feel like a beauty pageant winner. They were patient and funny as I made a mockery of the French language. At the market, I met the people with whom I would soon be hiking buddies and purchased ingredients that meant I made excellent meals without ever stepping foot into a supermarket.

zephyr-customer

A customer browses at the Zephyr Farm stand.

The Coastal Growers’ Market takes me back to the market in Cassis. The farmers and vendors are kind, patient, and caring—towards their customers and about the food and products they provide. In the summer, when the market is located at Casey Farm, I meet up with friends and we sit all morning on picnic benches and listen to music by different local bands each Saturday morning while drinking iced tea or a cold-pressed iced coffee from The Coffee Guy and eat the most amazing tacos in New England by Chef Jake Rojas of Tallulah’s Tacos.

In the winter, the market moves indoors to Lafayette Mill and we still listen to great music and drink—only it’s more likely to be an apple cider that’s been freshly pressed by Barden Family Orchard or a juice from Fully Rooted. There’s Seven Stars for croissants and fresh crusty bread and Bravo Wood Fire Pizza. We meet up with our farmers and buy our groceries for the week as well. I get my greens from Mark, the hydroponic farmer of Abasaloma Greenhouse. I buy my fresh eggs from Zephyr Farm. And I indulge in nitrate-free bacon from Pat’s Pasteurized, where I’ve gotten to know Deb and Annie, aka Santa’s Elves, who do service work feeding the homeless throughout the year.

I get my fresh seafood from The Local Catch and Matunuck Oyster Farm, where the young children love to hear Gabe’s stories about bivalves and watch as he opens an oyster just to watch their eyes light up in delight. There’s also Yorerganics where I purchase my laundry soapbuds and Susannah of Susannah’s Ice Cream and Sorbet, who makes the best darn Meyer lemon sorbet no matter what the season.

Coastal Growers’ Market has made my transition to Rhode Island simple. I’ve made new friends and I’ve become part of a community of people who care about food and healthy living. If you need holiday gifts, the market is the perfect stop. And if you just want to meet up with terrific people and have a relaxing Saturday morning, the market folks will greet you with open arms.

Coastal Growers’ Market
Lafayette Mill
650 Ten Rod Road
North Kingstown, RI
Every Saturday from 10am to 1pm until May 2, 2015

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The Sweet Spot: Ice Cream by the Beach

Summer = ice cream

Summer = ice cream

It has long been no mystery to my friends that any day that includes both swimming and ice cream is a ’10’ in my assessment. Maybe that’s why The Sweet Spot in Narragansett remains one of my favorite ice cream shops in the state — I don’t think I have ever been there without having first spent the day swimming at the beach. Although I usually come from one of the many beaches within a short driving distance, Sweet Spot happens to be located directly on the water, in front of Salty Brine State Beach, so close that it may even be possible to be swimming while eating ice cream.

They have the usual flavors — vanilla, chocolate, strawberry — and all are homemade, but I usually go for their Black Raspberry Chip (yogurt or ice cream) or Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough or, my favorite, Coconut Chip.

The Sweet Spot
256 Great Island Rd.
Narragansett, RI

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Blount Clam Shack: Summer All Year Long

Blount Clam Shack's famous clam chowder.

Blount Clam Shack’s famous clam chowder.

In an effort to try and pretend that summer is not over, I’ve continued to make regular trips to Eskimo King for soft serve (yes, it’s worth the drive from Providence). It just doesn’t get much better than their medium (okay sometimes large) coffee soft serve cone with chocolate jimmies. Sadly, they closed for their season on October 14.

Blount's seafood dinner for two, a Friday special.

Blount’s seafood dinner for two, a Friday special.

I also finally made my way over to Blount Clam Shack in Providence, which is open year round. We ordered the Saturday special “Seafood Dinner for Two” which as it turned out was plenty for all of us (two adults and two kids) with two cups of chowder, clam cakes,
haddock, scallops, whole belly clams, shrimp, french fries, cole slaw and two drinks. The clam chowder was our favorite with just the right amount of creamy with good hunks of firm potatoes and tender clams, but I definitely prefer the clam cakes at Flo’s Clam Shack. The rest seemed more like your traditional seafood shack fare, although the whole belly clams were quite unique and tasty. Next time, I’ll try the lobster bisque and a lobster roll for a taste of summer decadence in the off-season.

Eskimo King
29 Market Street
Swansea, MA
www.eskimoking.com

Blount Clam Shack and Soup Bar
371 Richmond Street
Providence, RI
http://www.blountretail.com/providence/home
Also see their list of other locations in Warren, Fall River, MA and Crescent Park (Riverside, RI) at http://www.blountretail.com/providence/other_blount_locations

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Matunuck Oyster Bar

There's nothing quite like a plate of lobster.

The whole lobster at Matunuck Oyster Bar.

Personally, I prefer a lobster roll. But it seems that once every summer, I have to order a full lobster despite how much effort it takes to eat it. For me, this needs to be prefaced by a day at the beach so that I’m sandy and salty while I eat it. Matunuck Oyster Bar happens to be located down the street from East Matunuck State Beach, so the location is ideal. Plus, they prioritize fresh, local seafood and local farm produce, which results in a fine meal.

Point Judith Calamari: Lightly fried calamari with cherry peppers, tossed with arugula and fried capers, and topped with citrus aioli

Point Judith Calamari: Lightly fried calamari with cherry peppers, tossed with arugula and fried capers, and topped with citrus aioli

We began our most recent meal with the perfectly tender calamari, which they lightly fry with cherry peppers and toss with arugula and fried capers, and top with citrus aioli. Their clam chowder (New England creamy or Rhode Island clear) also makes a great appetizer, and if you enjoy fresh oysters, you’ll find plenty to choose from here.

Next came the lobster — a monster of a meal, but delicious, of course. I’d also recommend the pistachio-crusted Atlantic cod with curry brown butter, saffron rice, and local roasted vegetables. Somehow, we still had room for dessert. We chose one of the best fruit cobblers I’ve ever eaten (that Geoff didn’t make). A day at the beach followed by a meal like this — I couldn’t ask for more.

Matunuck Oyster Bar
629 Succotash Rd
South Kingstown, RI 02879
(401) 783-4202
www.rhodyoysters.com

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Macaron Ice Cream Sandwiches at Ellie’s Bakery

Espresso ice cream in a chocolate macaron cookie from Ellie's Bakery.

Espresso ice cream in a chocolate macaron cookie from Ellie’s Bakery.

Cookies and ice cream — it’s pretty much always a winning combination, in my opinion, even when it comes in the form of a Chipwich or a Cow’wich.

The ice cream cart is parked outside of Ellie's Bakery most days from noon til 5 pm.

The ice cream cart is parked outside of Ellie’s Bakery most days from noon until 5 pm.

But Ellie’s Bakery in Downcity, Providence has taken the ice cream sandwich to a whole new refined level. They’ve created a “macaron ice cream cart” and parked outside their bakery to serve up homemade ice cream packed into homemade French macaron cookies.

On my most recent visit, I chose a chocolate macaron filled with espresso ice cream — a small, but perfect treat. My daughter chose the raspberry cookie and ice cream, which was gone before I saw her eat it. They also offered a pistachio cookie/ice cream combo, as well as a blueberry frozen yogurt in a blueberry cookie.

Ellie’s Bakery
61 Washington Street
Providence, RI
(401) 228-8118
www.facebook.com/ElliesBakery

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Surfing at Narragansett Town Beach

The waves at Narragansett Town Beach.

The waves at Narragansett Town Beach.

I have been surfing for eight years. I’ve surfed in Miami, Hawaii, Cape Code and Rhode Island. Yet if I counted up the hours I’ve spent surfing, it wouldn’t match even one summer for a dedicated surfer. That’s what happens when you learn to surf while going to graduate school, raising two children, and running a business (not to mention, writing this blog). Consequently, there seems to be no end to the amount of surfing lessons that I need.

Plus, the truth is that I’m terrified of surfing. And I am absolutely addicted to it.

So, yesterday, I joined a group lesson with Narragansett Surf & Skate instructor Mike. I had been watching the water for the previous two hours so I had seen surfers of every age, gender, shape and size paddle out and catch some waves, with or without an instructor.  I met a family visiting from Quebec, and all three daughters (the youngest of which was only six-years-old) started with a group lesson, but afterwards stayed in the water with their rented boards catching their own waves. Their father even wound up renting a board to get in on the action.

At Narragansett Town Beach, the waves are clean, modest (1-4 feet) and consistent for beginners. And even though I’ve been surfing for years, I still consider myself  a beginner. Mike pushed me into a few waves, but I also caught some on my own (and missed some on my own). And next time maybe, I’ll even venture out without an instructor — maybe.

Narragansett Surf & Skate
74 Narragansett Ave
Narragansett, RI
(401) 789-7890
www.narragansettsurfandskate.com

Warm Winds Surf Shop
26 Kingstown Rd
Narragansett, RI
(401) 789-9040
www.warmwinds.com

Peter Pan Surfing and SUP Academy
(401) 575-0003
http://peterpansurfingacademy.vpweb.com/