Pot au Feu

wines

Wine and champagne bottles line the perimeter of Pot au Feu.

We first stumbled upon Pot au Feu as we were walking aimlessly around downtown Providence.  The menu looked great — a traditional rustic French with some unique twists.  As I peered in the window, I could read a posted quote from Julia Child who apparently adored the place.  And it’s been there since 1972.  These are all things that seem to come together to make a truly stellar restaurant, so I was somewhat surprised to discover it only earned 3 1/2 stars on Yelp.  But that didn’t stop us.  We in Providence and are here to stay, and as such feel it’s our duty to try things ourselves that intrigue us.  What do Yelp users know anyway?

So last night we dined at Pot au Feu.  It’s a bit like walking into a cave, and when I say that I also mean a French cave, meaning “wine cellar.”  The brick walls lined with bottles of wine and champagne (even a sabered salmanazar) create a festive and cozy atmosphere.  It seemed odd that there were only two other tables occupied on a Thursday night — how they can have such a large menu with such a thin crowd?

snails

Escargots served in their shells

To make up for that, we decided to order all the courses, as well as a bottle of wine.  We started with the escargots — a classic French dish perfect for setting the standard.  The snails were perfect in their shells with a buttery garlic and parsley sauce.   The bread could have been better, however.  It was warmed which was a nice touch, but just not very good (or fresh perhaps).

All entrees come with a salad so that came next, along with their two homemade dressings — a creamy mustard and a raspberry vinaigrette.  Our server recommended mixing them together, which we did (he was right).  Of course, we had ‘upgraded’ ours to include blue cheese which was sprinkled atop and a welcome addition.

For dinner, Geoff had the boeff bourguignonne — a plate of deliciously tender braised meat with a decadent gratin dauphinoise (potatoes with cheese and cream — a winning combination).  I had the sirloin steak which was a thick cut and yet a juicy medium as I had requested.  The baked sweet potato and broccoli were fine, although even I can make those.  I was more impressed by the sweet winter squash served in its skin.

Dessert came next.  I ordered the pot du chocolate, which was topped with delicious fresh unsweetened whip cream.   The chocolate had great flavor; although since the cup had been refrigerated, it was a bit colder than it should be.  Geoff had the vanilla bean mousse — a delicious spin on an old favorite.

Overall, a wonderful meal.  Not cheap at $160, but we did have a lovely four-course meal with wine and steak.  It’s clear the chef puts a great deal of effort into his preparations and cares about his customers.  After I started eating my steak, the server came over to say the chef wanted to make sure it was cooked to my liking.  I said yes, but his real answer came by the fact that I finished every bite.

Pot au Feu
44 Custom House Street
Providence RI 02903
www.potaufeuri.com

The Steel Yard’s Iron Pour

Providence Steel Yard Iron Pour

A giant jack-o-lantern blazes at the Steel Yard's Annual Iron Pour.

Sometimes I wonder how Geoff hears about these things.  With little prior warning or details, we drove out the other night to The Steel Yard to witness their annual Iron Pour.  We arrived a bit after the ‘performance’ had begun, and there was already a significant crowd (of taller people) blocking the view to the action.  We literally couldn’t see anything.  We imagined something fascinating happening since every so often we would hear a collective ahh and see sparks fly out from the center of The Steel Yard.

Madeline happily viewed the show from Geoff’s shoulders.  However, I was most definitely not happy.  All I could see was the backs of people’s heads, and smoke from the fires our blew into our faces.  Upon complaining loudly, a neighboring observer (if you could call him that since he couldn’t see anything either) told us that the crowd had doubled from last year.  The bleachers, which were full, had been brought in this morning in anticipation of a larger crowd.  Yet it still struck me as so odd how so many people remained attentively facing the center although they couldn’t see a darn thing.  Not me.  I was ready to go.

Iron Pour

Stoking the fire at the annual Iron Pour.

On our way out, we happened to find less obstructed, if more distant, view of the Iron Pour.  From here we could see the iron workers stoking the fires of the furnaces, and the blazing Jack-O-Lantern.  When they would pour the molten metal, sparks scattered across the yard.  We lingered a bit longer to watch.  Madeline truly loved the display, so much so that she started to protest loudly when we announced we were leaving.  It’s a good thing there was a man making balloon pumpkins — it made the perfect parting gift.

The Steel Yard
Their 5,612 square foot industrial shop is a multi-use venue featuring studios where artists craft ceramics, glass and jewelry, as well as shops for welding, metal working and blacksmithing.  Classes are offered on the premises.
27 Sims Avenue
Providence, RI
http://thesteelyard.org

WaterFire Providence

WaterFire

Providence alights with WaterFire.

Tonight, the final fires of the season blazed for WaterFire in Providence, RI.

WaterFire

Sparks fly on a windy night.

A warm night made it a perfect evening for a walk through the city, although it did get quite windy at times spreading the sparks all over the banks of the river.

The 2010 season will begin in May.

WaterFire
www.waterfire.org

Chez Pascal: Market Menu Mondays

escargot

Sweet escargots but was it intentional?

We had planned to go to Tini, a new downtown Providence bar and restaurant serving tiny, tasty dishes, but discovered they are closed Monday nights.  So is Al Forno.  So is Farmstead.  Just as I was starting to think Monday might be the worst night to try to have an elegant and delicious dinner in Providence, I found Chez Pascal open.  Better yet, they offered their special “Market Menu Mondays” featuring all dishes created solely from local ingredients purchased at the nearby markets and farms.

We chose all our dishes from the Market Menu.  Well, except for escargots.  Oddly they were quite sweet which I didn’t notice until Geoff guessed that they had accidentally sugared not salted them.  The waiter attributed it to the pernod, but we never did hear the official word on that from the chef.  Still, we gladly ate them — once we added a bit of salt they tasted a bit more familiar.  Although much breadier than their Paris counterparts, the escargots were just as tender and perfectly paired with some toasted parsley-scented brioche. 

apple

Cortland apple crumble with lemon verbana ice cream.

For an appetizer, I ordered the fresh crisp greens with cortland apples, ginger pecans and sweet honey vinaigrette.  Geoff had the hearty escarole and potato soup.  For entrees, the Market Menu choices were meat (angus strip steak) or more meat (brined pork chop) so we ordered both.  The salty, blackened crust on the steak balanced the tender rare interior, and a sweet sauce complemented the pork chop and braised red cabbage.  Both were terrific.  We shared the baked cortland apple with rolled oat crumble and lemon verbena ice cream. Overall, Chez Pascal was a pleasant surprise, and I was glad to see the restaurant full and the bar humming. There is restaurant life in Providence on a Monday night, after all. Just make it an early night — the kitchen closes at 9 pm.

Chez Pascal
960 Hope Street
Providence, RI
www.chez-pascal.com

Three Sisters: Breakfast, Lunch and Ice Cream

Three Sisters café -- a cup of coffee and coffee ice cream.

Three Sisters café -- a cup of coffee and coffee ice cream.

I first discovered Three Sisters when I needed an oil change in a hurry.  The East Side Shell service center said they could squeeze me in, but that I’d have to wait a few hours.  Having work to do, I quickly googled for a free wifi café nearby and found Three Sisters two doors down.  All I wanted was an iced tea and a place to work for a few hours.  What I discovered was much more — a thick, gooey egg and cheese sandwich on an english muffin and an atmosphere that welcomed earnest laptop users and moms with strollers alike.

Anyone noticing a theme?  A yummy chocolate ice cream cone from Three Sisters -- I won't tell anyone if you eat it for breakfast.

Anyone noticing a theme? A yummy chocolate ice cream cone from Three Sisters -- I won't tell anyone if you eat it for breakfast.

Today, the East Side Shell brought me back to Three Sisters since this morning we had a flat tire.  I’ve been meaning to try their homemade ice cream, but keep showing up there at breakfast.  In fact, I have nothing against eating an ice cream cone at 10 am, which is why I bought a pint of chocolate and some cones and took them home to eat.  It’s a grittier chocolate — you can feel and taste the cocoa — but absolutely perfectly thick and creamy.  Oh, and they also sell Only 8, a highly addictive frozen yogurt safe for dieters, diabetics, and those with lactose-intolerance.  Yet I have the strange feeling that I won’t be getting the Only 8 next time either…

Three Sisters
1074 Hope Street
Providence, RI
www.threesistersri.com

East Side Shell
1100 Hope Street
Providence, RI
www.shell.com

Jack-O-Lantern Spectacular at Roger Williams Park Zoo

Jack-O-Lantern Spectacular at Roger Williams Park Zoo.

Jack-O-Lantern Spectacular at Roger Williams Park Zoo.

I usually take issue with things named spectacular, but I have to admit in the case of the Jack-O-Lantern Spectacular, the name fits.  The sheer number of pumpkins sacrificed to the cause of creating this glowing presentation is extraordinary.  You’ll pass hundreds of hand-carved unique faces along the winding path and see the hundreds more lit lanterns shimmering in the trees and across the ponds.

Each evening it starts at 6pm, although sunset comes a bit later.  We arrived at 5:30pm, waited in line, bought our tickets, then meandered near the entrance buying pretzels and drinking coffee.  What we didn’t realize is that there is another queue within the zoo for people to wait until it’s dark enough outside, and there’s plenty of stands (and time) while you’re on that line to buy SuperPretzels (not as deserving of their name).  Despite the line’s seeming to contain the entire population of Rhode Island, once dark descended, it moved fairly well.  And the fiery tribute to one of the prettier traditions of Halloween is truly worth the wait.

Roger Williams Park Zoo
Jack-O-Lantern Spectacular (october 8-November 1, 2009)
Providence, RI
www.rogerwilliamsparkzoo.org/jols/index.cfm

Rhode Iln Ice Cream

A coffee ice cream cone from Rhode iln Ice Cream's stand.

A coffee ice cream cone from Rhode Iln Ice Cream's stand.

After a bungled attempt to find ice cream last weekend, it surprised me to stumble upon a great cone just a short walk from our house.  Yesterday, Madeline spotted the little cart of Rhode Iln Ice Cream and demanded, “I want ice cream!”  I have to admit, I almost never say no to ice cream, usually because I want some myself.  Yesterday was no exception, and I replied by immediately getting in line.

Here in Rhode Island, a small is two scoops, a fact I greatly appreciate.  Madeline requested a chocolate cone, so I dolloped off one of her scoops into a spare cup so Geoff and I could have a taste.  It was so pale that I thought it was coffee ice cream at first, but it had a light chocolate malt flavor, not too sweet and perfectly creamy.  In general, I prefer a darker chocolate, but it was quite good, and there were no complaints from Madeline.  The coffee ice cream (my choice) blended just the right amount of subtle coffee flavor with sweet creaminess.  Both were equally smooth and soft (no traces of icicles here).  And as an all-natural treat made with local ingredients, you can feel good about indulging.  At least, I did.

Rhode Iln Ice Cream sets up a stand at farmers' markets and Water Fire.

Rhode Iln Ice Cream sets up a stand at farmers' markets and Water Fire.

Sadly, Rhode Iln Ice Cream doesn’t have its own store which makes them a bit elusive.   Right now, you can find them at the Hope Street and Rhode Island College Farmers’ Markets, as well as WaterFire (one more this season scheduled on October 31).  Founded by 20-something co-owners Tom Seiter and Jocelyn Nestell in 2008, the company’s success has already prompted them to increase their locations this year.  Their future plans even include packaging their ice cream for supermarkets.  Seeing as the farmers’ markets and WaterFire both end this month,  I’m hoping those future plans come to fruition soon.  I’ll certainly be buying.

Rhode Iln Ice Cream
www.rhodeilinicecream.com

WaterFire
www.waterfire.org

Cupcakes, Jerk Chicken, Natural Soda (oh, and Fruits and Veggies too) at Providence Downtown Farmers’ Market

Peanut butter cupcake with dark chocolate frosting -- why didn't I think of that?

Peanut butter cupcake with dark chocolate frosting -- why didn't I think of that?

A bit of squash, some onions, certainly apples — these are the things I expected to find at today’s visit to the Providence Downtown Farmers’ Market in Kennedy Plaza. And although it’s a small market, there were certainly enough vendors to satisfy, including some of my favorites from the Newport and Middletown markets — Simmons Farm (squash, lettuce, corn, heritage pork, etc.) and Barden Family Orchard (peaches and apples). I also discovered some new farm vendors — Big Train Farm, Hill Orchards and Heritage Farm.

Madeline wakes in time for The Cupcakerie.

Madeline wakes in time for The Cupcakerie.

What I did not expect to find were cupcakes. Now, I do agree that there is a cupcake bubble. Yet I have to agree with a friend of mine who recently admitted that there’s no ceiling on the price he’s willing to pay for one of those small perfectly iced cakes.   But the disappointing truth is most cupcakes are just awful and usually the better they look, the worse they are.  A trip to New York is worth it if only for a sloppy Magnolia cupcake, but I only needed to try once the delicately designed and lousy imitation cupcakes from Sweet in Boston or Crumbs (from New York to California). So I remained fairly skeptical as we paid $2.75 per impeccably iced cupcake from The Cupcakerie stand at the market today. Our choices: a lemon cupcake for ourselves and a peanut butter with chocolate frosting for Madeline who instinctively awakened from her nap as we approached the stand. I’ve never had a peanut butter cupcake with a smooth dark chocolate frosting, but now that I have, I’ll say, it’s about time. It was one of the softest, tastiest cupcakes I’ve ever had — a perfect balance of light cake and rich frosting.  The lemon cupcake equally impressed us with a simple cake and and heavy-on-the-butter (I’m not complaining) lemon frosting.

The stands at the Providence Downtown Farmers' Market.

The stands at the Providence Downtown Farmers' Market.

The market was full of other wonderful sweet and savory surprises like the fabulously tender jerk chicken from a stand by Tina’s Caribbean Restaurant and a clearly addictive agave-sweetened and purple corn infused soda by Misti.  Oh yes, I’ll be back.  And I’ll try to remember to pick up some fruits and vegetables while I’m there too.

Providence Downtown Farmers’ Market
Kennedy Plaza & Exchange Terrace
Providence, RI
http://www.farmfresh.org/food/farmersmarkets_details.php?market=13
Fridays 11:00 AM to 2:00 PM from June 12 to October 30, 2009

The Cupcakerie
www.thecupcakerie.net

Misti
www.misticorporation.com

Tina’s Caribbean Restaurant
www.tinasjamaican.faithweb.com

Simmons Farm
www.simmonsfarm.com

Barden Family Orchard
www.bardenfamilyorchard.com

Heritage Farm
www.heritagefarmri.com

First Two Days of Eating in Providence: Diners and Delis

An inside view of Farmstead.

An inside view of Farmstead.

We moved to Providence, Rhode Island 48 hours ago, and have had a decent meal every six hours on average. With no particular bias except geography, here are the first eight Rhode Island restaurants we tried since we became residents of the state. I’ve ordered these from what I thought was the worst to the best, for fun, so the reader can understand my personal preferences for food and why.

8. Haven Brothers Diner – By far the worst meal of the lot. I’ve been to this movable diner once before at 2am, and it seemed a lot better than it did on my recent day visit.  Nothing is cooked to order, frozen food is reheated in an underpowered microwave in unwashed containers. The staff is all family and perfectly friendly, but tonight they are much more interested in the novelty of running a diner than the food quality. One would think the novelty would have worn off considering that they’ve been around forever. Walking up those stairs into the portable restaurant is really great, but the food is worse than poor. Save it for 2am. (Fulton and Dorrance Streets, Providence, RI)

7. Minerva Pizza House – Standard fare. Americanized Greek and Middle Eastern food. I didn’t try the pizza yet, but falafel fell short. A heavily seasoned grilled chicken salad (iceberg lettuce) wasn’t half-bad. (20 South Angell Street, Providence, RI)

6. Amenities – This little owner-run deli makes decent sandwiches, with good proportions, on fresh bread. A few inventive items decorate the whiteboard menu. A turkey Reuben was tasty the other day, and the sandwich was made to order with care. (10 Dorrance Street, Providence, RI)

5. Eddie & Sons Diner – [Ed. note: Eddie & Sons has closed permanently] The atmosphere at this central downtown diner can’t be beat. Newspapers waiting in a neat pile for their readers to pore over during a breakfast taken with black coffee. They failed my official ‘diner litmus test’ with canned hash, but Michele liked the pancakes, which is no small feat. Lots of gossip, lots of regulars, and even a refusal to serve a customer — “I can’t fill that coffee cup, it’s too big,” our waitress practically hollers to a workmen who walked in. “Let him fill it,” a voice rings out from the back.  “I already told him I won’t!” she shouts back. I love it. Potatoes (another test) were not crispy but otherwise very flavorful. (4 Dorrance St Providence, RI)

4. East Side Pocket – The long line is a giveaway. This place is good. Fresh-made sandwiches, and solid Middle Eastern food. Chips and hummus where both the hummus and chips taste homemade. (278 Thayer Street, Providence, RI www.eastsidepocket.com)

3.  Seven Stars BakeryThese simple sandwiches of ham, cheese and butter on a baguette could have been made in Paris — tasty although a bit dry (here you are welcome to add mustard or mayo).  They also make a delicious cinnamon swirl bun and ginger star cookies. They carry soda made in Rhode Island! (820 Hope St and 342 Broadway, Providence, RI www.sevenstarsbakery.com)

2. Loui’s – This snug diner offers great diner food at reasonable prices.  Favorites are the delicious (and huge) breakfast sandwiches on toasted long rolls or English muffins and tasty pancakes (no maple syrup though).  Sometimes the portions are a bit absurd, like two scrambled eggs that look more like five.  They also have lunch and dinner items — although we tried to go there for dinner on Monday, and they were closed.  The service is perfect — our quick-handed waitress was able to save a huge OJ from being knocked off the table by an over-eager Madeline.  We’ve been back quite a few times since we first discovered this place on one of our trips to Providence — it’s a keeper. (286 Brook St, Providence, RI)

1. Farmstead – Glad to see this top-notch little sandwich shop in Wayland Square.  A BLT with thick, smoky bacon (perfectly cooked, IMO) on even thicker bread is a delicious, if a bit heavy of a lunch.  The braseola with fig jam, cheese and lettuce definitely won us over. They have a wide selection of cheeses, and even sell chips and sodas made in New England. (184-188 Wayland Avenue, Providence, RI, www.farmsteadinc.com June 2014: Farmstead has been sold and will no longer be run by Chef Matt Jennings

Off Leash: Dog Parks in Rhode Island

Friend or foe?  Without a leash, I never know...

Friend or foe? Without a leash, I never know…

Sometimes I think it is my personal mission to inform dog owners of the local leash law.

The other day, I even called the local police to report a golden lab who wandered aimlessly in King Park in Newport, RI. After a few minutes, I did see a police car drive down Wellington Ave — impressive. But about a half hour later and block away, I passed two women attempting to leash that same dog — not as impressive.

“Is that your dog?” I asked the two women.

“No,” one of them said. “But he has a collar and we’re going to phone the owner.”

“Oh, I said, “I called the police earlier but I guess they didn’t find him,” I answered.

“Thank you so much,” she said.

When I was a young child, my dad was bit by an unleashed dog, and I’ve never forgotten the memory of his bloody hand in the car afterwards. I guess that’s why I’m a bit afraid of unleashed dogs (especially when they’re chasing my toddler at a children’s park). So, I’m all for the law that requires that you keep your dog on a leash. Is it really so much to ask? I don’t care how nice he or she is, how gentle, how old. If your dog needs to run around, then run alongside your leashed dog. If you can’t manage that, then take the poor creature to a dog park — I’ve listed them all below to help you out. If you can’t even manage that, are you sure you want a dog?

And if you don’t heed my advice, just remember I have the number of Animal Control, and I’m not afraid to use it (or post it, see below).

Rhode Island Off-Leash Dog Parks

Haines Park Dog Park
On the west side of Haines Memorial State Park
Rt 103
Barrington, Rhode Island
http://www.riparks.com/haines.htm

Bristol Paw Park (coming soon)
Bristol, Rhode Island
http://www.bristolpawpark.org (not yet live)

Newport Dog Park
At the base of the Pell Bridge, across the street from the Newport Playhouse.
Connell Highway
Newport, Rhode Island

Gano Street Dog Park
Gano Street and Power Street (adjacent to basketball courts)
Providence, Rhode Island
http://www.providencedogparkassociation.org/gano_street.htm

Warwick Dog Park
In Warwick City Park down the road, past parking on the right.
Asylum Road
Warwick, Rhode Island

To Report an Un-Leashed Dog

Call the (non-emergency) number for your local police station or one of the animal control offices listed.

Animal Control
Providence, Rhode Island
(401) 243-6040‎
www.providenceri.com/animal/

Barrington Police Animal Control‎
Barrington, Rhode Island
(401) 437-3936‎

Bristol Dog Pound
Bristol, Rhode Island
(401) 253-4834‎

Central Falls Animal Control‎
Central Falls, Rhode I‎sland
(401) 727-7411 x3106‎

Charlestown Animal Control Shelter
Charlestown, Rhode I‎sland
(401) 364-1211‎

Coventry Police Department: Animal Control & Rescue
Coventry, Rhode Island
(401) 822-9106‎

Hopkinton Animal Control
Hopkinton, Rhode Island
(401) 377-7785‎

Lincoln Town Animal Control
Lincoln, Rhode Island
(401) 333-0950‎

North Kingstown-Exeter Animal Rescue League‎
North Kingstown, Rhode Island
(401) 294-1115‎

Pawtucket: Animal Control Officer
Pawtucket, Rhode Island
(401) 722-4243‎

Portsmouth Animal Control
Portsmouth, Rhode Island
(401) 643-0136‎

Smithfield Animal Control‎
(401) 233-1055‎

Animal Rescue League‎
Wakefield, Rhode Island
(401) 792-2233‎

Tiverton Animal Control
Tiverton, Rhode Island
(401) 624-6624‎

Warwick Police: Animal Control Officer
Warwick, Rhode Island
(401) 468-4377‎

West Greenwich Animal Control‎
West Greenwich, RI
(401) 397-8999‎

Animal Rescue League Westerly‎
Westerly, Rhode I‎sland
(401) 596-2090‎

Richmond Animal Control‎
Wyoming, Rhode I‎sland
(401) 766-6571‎