Providence

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2010 Cochon 555: Our Prince of Porc Still Reigns

Providence Chef Matt Jennings takes home the prize from the Boston Cochon 555 for his Pig Mac.

On paper, Cochon 555 sounds like a divine night — five talented chefs create five pork dishes each while five vineyards provide a selection of accompanying wines. In reality, it felt a bit more like a mess hall as hoards of people in a tight space competed for a sliver of a table to set their plates while they stood and ate their food — that is, after they’d waited in line for fifteen minutes to get that mini-plate of food.

Why do I have the funny feeling that most of these people's tickets were comped?

Of course, the food is the star attraction here. Geoff thought that the cured porks and homemade hams were top-notch — my particular favorite was the pork jerky from Clink. Pulled pork sandwiches and a pork consommé were tasty but nothing new; more impressive was Toro’s pork skin chili (delicious despite how it sounds). Some of the dishes seemed rushed in the face of demanding crowds — Clink’s steamed pork dumplings needed a bit more steam and Craigie on Main’s pork skin wrap was slopped together making for too fatty of a bite. Ultimately Providence Chef Matt Jennings took home the prize for his perfectly conceived Pig Mac with a side of salt and vinegar fried pork skins and a pork rice crispy treat (also delicious despite how it sounds).

I did find the voting method quite odd for an event of this stature. Rather than one ballot per person, they use the “honor system” leaving piles of cards by the ballot box. That may work in Massachusetts, folks, but here in Rhode Island, corruption is a pastime. Nevertheless, I voted for Matt’s Pig Mac (once) and so did Geoff, and it wasn’t only because we wanted Rhode Island to win, but because it was actually the best. And because he kept it simple, he was able to keep up with the demand and prevent long lines at his table.

So here’s to our very own Prince of Porc for his well-deserved second year reign.

Cochon 555
2010 Competitors:
Tony Maws – Craigie on Main
Jamie Bissonette – Toro
Matthew Jennings – Farmstead
Barry Maiden – Hungry Mother
Joseph Margate – Clink
www.cochon555.com

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Rue de L’Espoir: Perfect Popovers

Note: Sadly, Rue de L’Espoir has closed.

A basket of homemade popovers and cinnamon buns awaits you when you arrive.

Although Rue de L’Espoir has received mixed reviews, I was surprised to see no one mentioned what I believe may be their show-stopper: homemade popovers.

I haven’t visited for dinner yet (too many restaurants, too little time) but on our latest brunch outing I found Rue de L’Espoir offers a nice brunch in a cozy atmosphere.  Admittedly it’s not perfect — the omelets, for example, had too much brown on them to be considered a proper French omelet.  And although the pancakes were tasty, they were no match for my personal favorite.  But they served homemade corn muffins with raspberry jam, fresh cinnamon rolls, and, most importantly, deliciously light and airy homemade popovers.

If you’ve never eaten a popover, you may not appreciate the significance of my finding amazing popovers.  When made correctly, it’s basically a giant cream puff without the cream.  And if, like me, you’ve never attempted to make a popover, you might not realize just how difficult it is to achieve a dough that yields a golden brown crust atop a few layers of soft dough covering mostly a giant pocket of air.  But I know a good thing when I eat it, and the popovers at Rue De L’Espoir will not disappoint.

Rue De L’Espoir
99 Hope Street
Providence, RI
www.therue.com

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Farmstead: Lunch, Dinner and Gourmet Shopping

June 2014: Farmstead has been sold and will no longer be run by Chef Matt Jennings

Although there’s an official restaurant next door, diners are even happy to sit at the “cheese bar” for a meal at Farmstead.

I love any restaurant where the waitress asks, “Do you want the bacon with that?” and she’s talking about dessert. But what’s most impressive is that at Farmstead the bacon actually works in the dessert.  Especially since, as everyone knows, bacon is a health food.

I first discovered Farmstead’s gourmet store where they make superb sandwiches with local ingredients and sell an impressive array of cheeses, in-house cured meats and New England gourmet goods.  This array of items provides the backdrop for Farmstead which is usually enough to get me salivating.

It’s quite popular especially on weekends, but worth waiting for (even if it did take way more than the 45 minutes the hostess promised on one Saturday night visit). During the week or if you come early, though, you might just slide quickly into one of their precious few tables and enjoy expertly subtle flavors packed into a range of dishes that would satisfy both gourmands (seared vermont chicken livers) and more timid foodies (virginia ham & brie cheese sandwich). It may be hard to resist their meat and cheese boards, but it’s easy to fill up on those so my advice is to order a selection of the little plates to share as well as one larger plate and save the meats and cheeses to take home with you. Of course, I don’t follow that advice. But maybe you can.

It’s clear that Chefs Matt Jennings and Kate Jennings and their team have a passion for well-crafted fresh food made with locally-sourced ingredients, and the results are indisputable.  Next weekend, Chef Matt and his team will return to defend his last year’s win of the Cochon 555 competition, which you can attend this Sunday, March 28 in Boston.  Let’s hope as he says, Farmstead and Providence can keep “bragging rights” after the competition which sets five chefs (the other four are from Boston) against each other in the competition.  Providence may not beat Boston in many ways, but it’d sure be nice to continue to claim “Prince of Porc.” [Ed. note: Jennings did, in fact, win that year’s Cochon 555].

Farmstead, Inc.
184-188 Wayland Avenue
Providence, RI 02906
www.farmsteadinc.com

Cochon 555
Boston competition on March 28, 2010
www.cochon555.com

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The Duck & Bunny: A Snuggery

The Duck and Bunny posts their cupcake menu daily.

When I spotted the silhouette sign of The Duck & Bunny hanging along Wickenden Street, I decided to stop in as soon as I could.  Today, I discovered the dollhouse charm that lay within — gray and white striped walls, glass chandeliers, white tufted seats.  They serve a selection of tea sandwiches (cucumber with herb butter, turkey with dried cranberry, tuna with apple, sundried tomato cream, and smoked salmon with dill cream) along with mini cupcakes on a tiered cake stand. Even the list of beers on tap (which includes Dogfish Head) rests within a little white Victorian frame.  The husband-and-wife proprietors, Daniel and Jessica Becker call their café/teahouse/bar/restaurant a “snuggery.” And thanks to Jessica Becker’s elegant design, it works — whether you sit at their Parisian marble tables or a few chairs by the fire or some stools along the bar.

A carrot cupcake.

Since we had already eaten (delicious) Cambodian soup at Angkor across the street, we had to save the savory dishes for another day. Instead we ordered a few cupcakes to try — Carrot, Peanut Butter Chocolate Truffle, and Date-Nut Spice, along with some teas, a “drinking chocolate” for Madeline, and an espresso for Geoff. The soft cakes pack some rich flavor and come in both mini and regular sizes.

Although The Duck & Bunny only opened five weeks ago, nearly every seat was filled when we arrived. The earnest waitstaff struggled to keep up with the clearly unexpected demand, but they had a sense of humor about it — and I’m certainly willing to give them a few extra weeks to smooth out the service. Especially since I need to try those tea sandwiches…

Duck & Bunny
312 Wickenden Street
Providence, RI
www.theduckandbunny.com

A tea service steeps behind the almond poundcakes.

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Juniper Frozen Yogurt

July 2014 Update:I am sad to report that Juniper has closed.

Pure white — you can’t beat a small original with nothing on it.

No, it’s not Pinkberry. Still, Juniper Frozen Yogurt whips up some tasty, tangy frozen yogurt in two flavors — original and blueberry — satisfying that urge (which I seem to get quite often) for soft serve. (See my related obsession with Frosty Freez).

Madeline likes it. Although, to be fair, she’s not very picky.

If you somehow missed the tangy frozen yogurt craze, I do believe you are missing out. Obviously, I consider myself an expert having tried Pinkberry, Red Mango, and any imitators. If you don’t believe me, see Madeline and me pictured at BoYo’s debut last year in The Boston Globe (photo number three). Long gone are the days when frozen yogurt tries to guise as ice cream; now it embraces its tartness.

As for Juniper, I do wish they’d alternate flavors the way Boston’s Berryline does since I’ve long since tired of their blueberry. But I’m content enough with a small original with no toppings to keep coming back. And with it being organic and nonfat, it’s guilt-free, as long as you don’t mind the damage to your wallet once you’re addicted.

Juniper Frozen Yogurt
229 Thayer Street
Providence, RI

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A Trio of Libraries: Providence’s Public Library, Community Library and the Athenaeum

The Providence Athenaeum children's section has a cozy reading area filled with children's books.

Let’s see if I’ve got this straight.  The Providence Public Library consists of the Central Library at 150 Empire Street in downtown Providence.  But since July 2009 due to fiscal problems, the other nine city branches (Rochambeau, Fox Point, etc.) have been overseen by a nonprofit organization called the Providence Community Library.  As unusual as this sounds, the two remain linked, so that one can take a book out of the Rochambeau branch with a Providence Public library card.

There’s also the Providence Athenaeum, an independent membership library housed in an 1838 Greek Revival building in College Hill, which shouldn’t be overlooked.  Although there’s an annual membership fee, you gain access to events, borrowing privileges from their collection and RISD’s, and the knowledge that you’re supporting a historic piece of the community.  If membership fee seems too steep, no matter — the library is open to the public and encourages visitors.

With all this variety comes one challenge — keeping track of events.  So if you happen to be looking for a children’s story time, for example, be sure to check the Cradles to Crayons series held at both the main and other branches, as well as the the Athenaeum’s story hours.

Providence Athenaeum
251 Benefit Street
Providence, RI
www.providenceathenaeum.org

Providence Public Library
150 Empire Street
Providence, RI
www.provlib.org

Providence Community Library
See a list of branches.
www.provcomlib.org

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Cable Car Cinema: Academy Award Nominated Live Action Shorts

"The New Tenants" is one of the short live action films nominated for an Academy Award.

There are quite a few things to love about the Cable Car Cinema — all-you-can-eat popcorn, several large cushy chairs for two, and a theatre small enough to share a more intimate movie experience. But perhaps the best reason is for its lack of Hollywood fare in favor of the sometimes weird and wonderful world of independent film.

This weekend, I stopped in for a packed screening of the Academy Award nominated short live action films presented by Shorts International. These shorts created without the muscle of Hollywood portray stories not often found on the big screen and offer an oft unseen side of the Academy Awards. And this year, one of the films The New Tenants, was co-produced by Cumberland, RI native Erika Hampson.

You can get free popcorn refills at the quaint candy counter at Cable Car Cinema.

Cable Car Cinema
204 South Main Street
Providence, RI
www.cablecarcinema.com

Shorts International
(list of screenings worldwide)
www.shortsinternational.com

2009 Live Action Shorts Nominees for the Academy Awards
The Door Juanita Wilson and James Flynn
Instead of Abracadabra Patrik Eklund and Mathias Fjellström
Kavi Gregg Helvey
Miracle Fish Luke Doolan and Drew Bailey
The New Tenants Joachim Back and Tivi Magnusson
www.thenewtenantsfilm.com

Complete list of Oscar nominees at www.oscars.org

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Luxe Burger Bar

An "All American Burger" from Luxe Burger Bar.

After seeing Food Inc., I didn’t think I’d ever eat a hamburger again. Apparently, I was wrong.

Last night, we headed to Luxe Burger Bar in downtown Providence for dinner.  Since there was a 20 minute wait for a table and we were in a rush, we opted for the bar.

Oh big deal, you say, what’s another hamburger?  But I  have to give a nod to Luxe Burger Bar not only because of their flavorful, juicy Kobe beef burger with hand-cut Idaho potato fries, but also because of the way you order it.   Each diner gets a sheet featuring nine steps to custom build a burger.  You choose the meat (turkey, Gold label beef, Kobe beef, vegetarian, etc.), the toppings (caramelized onions, lettuce, etc.), the cheese, the sauce, the bun (sesame, plain, whole wheat), and the sides.  And voilà, you get exactly what you wanted without taking 10 minutes to order. 

No wonder as we rushed out to catch Avatar (blush), the number of people waiting had since doubled.

Luxe Burger Bar
5 Memorial Boulevard
Providence, RI
www.luxeburgerbar.com

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Children and the Cinema: Watching and Making Local Films


Check out my article on KidoInfo Children and the Cinema: Watching and Making Local Films, which features film festivals and filmmaking workshops for children. And buy your tickets for the first-ever Providence Children’s Film Festival coming to RI next week. They have put together an impressive line-up, including the New England premiere of the Oscar-nominated film The Secret of Kells.

Providence Children’s Film Festival
February 12-15, 2010
www.providencechildrensfilmfestival.org

The Secret of Kells
www.thesecretofkells.com

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Support the Providence Children’s Museum

Climbing in the pretend forest at the Providence Children's Museum.


I’ll never forget the first time I took Madeline to the Children’s Museum in Boston — upon arrival we went directly into the first room which contains a wall of tubes and slides for ping pong balls. She didn’t want to leave.

She’s since learned that there’s usually something even more exciting around every corner so our recent visits to the Providence Children’s Museum have spanned all the exhibits from noise-makers to stacking magnetic shapes to human bones. My personal favorite is “Coming to Rhode Island” where kids (and crouching adults) can weave through Rhode Island’s past to hear stories and role play in four scenes related to families who emigrated to the state. On one recent visit, the Latino bodega became authentically bustling with kids shopping for canned goods, weighing vegetables and ringing up customers.

In one exhibit, kids can toss feathery balls and cloths through a series of air tubes to see where they shoot out.

Currently, the museum is a few hundred thousand shy of their $1.5 million fundraising target for their Play Works Campaign for Kids which will help them accomplish several goals including the creation of two new outdoor exhibits set to open in the summer 2010: Underland, an underground world filled with roots, tunnels and critters’ burrows and The Climber, a custom-designed climbing experience. So if you can, show your support — every small donation gets them closer to their goal.

Providence Children’s Museum
100 South Street
Providence, RI 02903
www.childrenmuseum.org