It was cold and rainy when I came home on the train from Boston. I remembered a note sent from Ebisu restaurant that they were making Takoyaki – a pan-fried sphere of creamy batter, crispy on the outside, with a little piece of octopus in the middle. As tasty as a Rhode Island clamcake with a Japanese spin to it.

They make shabu-shabu too, which is delicious with their homemade dipping sauce.

My next trip will be all about sitting at the bar and ordering plate after plate of yakitori. I saw their shishamo (little grilled fish) which looked like they would go great with a tall cold beer.

Ebisu Japanese Restaurant
38 Pontiac Avenue
Providence, RI
(401) 270-7500
info@ebisuri.com
www.ebisuri.com

Having grown up in New York City, I have fairly high standards for my bagels. To me, a proper bagel is one hot out of the oven from H&H Bagels and preferably eaten on the way to a relaxing stroll through Central Park. So when I woke up Saturday morning craving a bagel, I woke up with a mission.

I already knew that Bagel Ole on Thayer didn’t cut it, and although I do love the seeded bagels at Olga’s, they’re really not bagels in my opinion, but a tasty bread in the shape of a bagel.

Awhile back, we had read that the supposedly amazing Barneys Bagels (since closed) has been reincarnated through Palmeri’s Bakery. We had gotten these once before, but I couldn’t quite remember how they ranked, so we started there. I’m sorry to report the bagels were way too thin and dry (more like a piece of toast than the soft, doughy bagel I was hankering for) with a stingy amount of cream cheese. Time to move on. (As an aside, their challah bread, on the other hand, is absolute perfection).

After my half-eaten attempt, we headed over to Bagel Gourmet on the East Side. This place is beyond unassuming — a dated sign hangs over their tiny shop in a mini strip-mall. But when I walked in, I could smell the bagels — mmm. Then I placed the same order — everything bagel toasted with cream cheese. When I got to the car to unwrap my prize, I was pleasantly surprised — a soft airy center with a chewy outside (and slathered in cream cheese).

No, it’s not H&H. However, to be fair, I’ll have to show up at Bagel Gourmet at 6 am when the bagels come out of the oven, since for optimal deliciousness, a bagel’s half-life is only a half hour. Which is why it doesn’t even pay to have bagels to shipped from H&H. Not to mention, when a ‘wooly’ strikes, even next day delivery isn’t soon enough.

Bagel Gourmet
250 Brook Street
Providence, RI 02906
(401) 453-5560

Palmieri’s Bakery
147 Ridge St
Providence, RI 02909
(401) 831-9145

On paper, Cochon 555 sounds like a divine night — five talented chefs create five pork dishes each while five vineyards provide a selection of accompanying wines. In reality, it felt a bit more like a mess hall as hoards of people in a tight space competed for a sliver of a table to set their plates while they stood and ate their food — that is, after they’d waited in line for fifteen minutes to get that mini-plate of food.

Of course, the food is the star attraction here. Geoff thought that the cured porks and homemade hams were top-notch — my particular favorite was the pork jerky from Clink. Pulled pork sandwiches and a pork consommé were tasty but nothing new; more impressive was Toro’s pork skin chili (delicious despite how it sounds). Some of the dishes seemed rushed in the face of demanding crowds — Clink’s steamed pork dumplings needed a bit more steam and Craigie on Main’s pork skin wrap was slopped together making for too fatty of a bite. Ultimately Providence Chef Matt Jennings took home the prize for his perfectly conceived Pig Mac with a side of salt and vinegar fried pork skins and a pork rice crispy treat (also delicious despite how it sounds).

I did find the voting method quite odd for an event of this stature. Rather than one ballot per person, they use the “honor system” leaving piles of cards by the ballot box. That may work in Massachusetts, folks, but here in Rhode Island, corruption is a pastime. Nevertheless, I voted for Matt’s Pig Mac (once) and so did Geoff, and it wasn’t only because we wanted Rhode Island to win, but because it was actually the best. And because he kept it simple, he was able to keep up with the demand and prevent long lines at his table.

So here’s to our very own Prince of Porc for his well-deserved second year reign.

Cochon 555
2010 Competitors:
Tony Maws – Craigie on Main
Jamie Bissonette – Toro
Matthew Jennings – Farmstead
Barry Maiden – Hungry Mother
Joseph Margate – Clink
www.cochon555.com